8/19/2008

The Great Wall




The Great Wall day started early and with good weather: bright, clear and a little warmer than yesterday but with a slight breeze. It was difficult to get everyone together at the bus and we left almost an hour later than planned. We drove about an hour toward the mountains to the north. Most everyone was nodding along the way. The long hours, time-zone difference and full days were taking their toll on us.
The Great Wall was built to protect the empire from marauding hordes from the north and west. Posts were maintained to signal with fires relaying the message of any threats to the Emperor’s palace. The pass that we visited was the closest post to the Forbidden City and the fastest horses were kept there to ride to the palace with any worthwhile news. Decisions to go to war or not needed to be made quickly. The emperor was the only holder of the Seal of the Tiger Head that was needed to sign the orders to go to war. Visitors from all nationalities as well as Chinese visitors from other cities gathered here to climb the wall. The first and second posts lie within easy reach of all. The third post is a different story altogether as it sits atop a hill and a very long and steep climb is needed to reach it. No two steps are of the same height making climbing very hard. The dark grey stones used by the builders worn smooth by the feet of a thousand warriors and visitors through the ages are concave and clean if uneven. You can’t help but let your mind wonder back in times and try picturing the workers laboring to create this marvel of the ancient world. You could almost hear the cries of the warriors and smell the smoke of the pyres of signaling fires. A row of padlocks adorned with red ribbons have been locked onto a rusted chain hung along the north face of the wall as good luck symbols of hopes for enduring love and promises kept by happy couples. For those fit enough to make it to the third post tower, a Hero Certificate is available for a fee to certify the accomplishment. I considered my possibilities of making it up there in the hour’s time we were given to stay around and decided to try and see how far I could climb. Much to my surprise, and in spite of the interference by the many people going up and down the narrow stairs, I was able to make it and claim my new hero status.
Back at the bus we all arrived sweaty and tired, our legs shaking from the descent that proved to be much more difficult than the climb as the uneven steps require you to proceed slowly and placing a heavy burden on your leg muscles. At least a light breeze could be felt and helped cool you as you waited for the rest of the group to arrive.
Lunch was at a nearby location only 10 minutes away. We arrived at a working cooper vase factory where enameled vases were made by the Cloisonne (a French word) method of laying down the intricate drawings with thin cooper wire that was then attached by heat to the surface of the vase, this created small spaces that were then filled with the colored enamel and cooked onto the piece. The process had to be repeated at least four times before the vase could be carefully polished by hand to get the final shiny finish, a complicated and expensive process. The beautiful resulting pieces could be had at the large showroom where many attendants tried to help you select the one you just could not live without. Lunch was on the second floor of the factory and started with a delicious 53% alcohol rice distillate. Much to my surprise our lunch turned out to be one of the better Chinese meals that we had. Many of the group arrived at the bus bearing bags with several of the small green bottles of the rice libation to take as presents.

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